Wood Designer forum
dan michaels stair|Page 3|Forum|WOOD DESIGNER
August 7, 2014
Hi Daniel
first, you mentioned banisters of 1 1/2 inch. What you show me know are newels of 3 1/4 inch?
The main newels used in the stair are 3 1/2 inch. Can you make a little more clear on what it should be like?
Regards
Michel
Hi Michel
Haven’t heard back from you since the last post, hope that will be okay to change the railings.
I submitted the pdf stair details to the building inspector, he is not the most communicative person but he forwarded me a special page from the Massachussetts (my state) building code regarding stairs and winders.
I am attaching it. We meet most of the requirements. The major one I am concerned about is the “greatest winder tread depth at the qe inch walk line shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8 inch”, also the minimum winder tread depth at the 12 inch line must be 9 inches. I think we are very close to that. Can we re-size each winder so they comply?
Also, the requirement that for open risers, a four-inch sphere cannot pass through. I have an idea how to solve that but it is not ideal. Any thoughts?
As soon as we get through this, I am ready to go, no more changes.
Thank you,
Dan
Hello again Michel.
I’ve looked at a few stairs this morning and thought about the cost and complexity and style and decided I want to go with straight
1 1/2 x 1 1/2 stair newels instead of the cable system. I also have to put the same system all around the upstairs opening of course. The cost and difficulty is just too much and the style isn’t really right for this house.
I’m having the plans reviewed by the building inspector right now and will advise if there are any other changes.
Thank you
Dan
That’s great, Michel, just what I need! Thanks.
Two comments: on the right side hand-rail, you show a bend however I will probably use cables which will not bend that way – we need a newel post there.
Also, there seem to be no contacts with the floor except for the bottom of the first stringers. So the stair is only supported at the first step, last step, and where the right stringer connects with the rear wall. Is that strong enough? I think I will feel more comfortable if the newel post on the left at the “turn”, and the new newel post on the right side, extended down to the floor.
After those two changes, I am going to print out the pdf worksheets and go to the building inspector for a quick review and then we can proceed and complete this.
Best regards
Dan
August 7, 2014
Hi Dan,
Here is a short video where you can see all the different aspects of the stair. Hope this helps.
(EDIT: link no longer active)
regards
Michel
Thank you for showing me the stair template examples.
Michel, I do not know what sd7 is, if it is stair designer, I am not going to run around and try to get windows or someone else’s laptop. I had previously paid for one month of stair designer and spent hours trying to download it, putting the emulators on my computer, which did not work in several different ways, borrowing friends laptop, which would not run it either, and going to two libraries who would not let me download.
Neither am I willing to spend more time trying to download some type of CAD program. I need to spend time working on my house, not getting frustrated at failing to know how to utilize various computer applications.
The templates look great, I can see the pdf of each part and the cutting list, so all that is good. I just need a 3D view from the bottom to see how everything fits together. I’m sure you can think of a way, I had already gotten a 3D view previously, it just did not have the correct angle I need to see the assembly.
thanks
Dan
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