Wood Designer forum
dan michaels stair|Page 2|Forum|WOOD DESIGNER
Home
Yes, actually Belgian beers have a big mystique here, at least in Northeast U.S…. we have a good restaurant here in the Berkshires that specializes in Trappist beers even though I live in a rural area. I like Chimey and Orval.
There used to be a bar in New York city called Burp Castle… they only served Belgian monastery beers and the waiters were all dressed as monks and there was a no-talking code…. every fifteen minutes the waiters and bartenders would ring a bell and say “Shhhhhhh….” Funny.
So, I’m thinking about the gap between steps, whichI guess can only be 4 inches. Although I’m hoping maybe he won’t enforce that one because I have seen many stairs with open risers in many places. But if we do comply, the space between top of one tread and bottom of the next tread is 5 1/2 inches, right?? So to make it a four inch gap we would have to put a piece 1 1/2 wide, am I interpreting that correctly?
Thinking about it more, I guess you mean the thickness of the wood, not the width. I don’t think that matters much, 1/2 inch seems fine.
I don’t think you necessarily need to put that in the plans, do you, since I could just add those pieces later? Of am I missing something?
August 7, 2014
Offline
Hi Dan,
Ooh, you know the Belgian beers. 
I need 1 more info from you. I used 1/2 ” riser thickness to narrow down the gap between the steps. Are you using another size?
regards
Michel
That looks great, Michel, good work, I would like to buy you an extra large order of frites with mayo and a Duvel.
The text says “at the 12 inch walk line” and the walk line MUST be assumed to be the line you walk, if they say 12 inches it must be from the inside of the rail, not from a part of the stair you can’t get to.
I think this is the final. Actually I already purchased the wood, red oak, it will be beautiful. It’s not easy to get 1 3/4 x 11 1/4 pieces of oak but I found them.
So if you can prepare all the final documents, I guess we are good.
Thanks
Dan
August 7, 2014
Offline
Hi Daniel,
This is the best I could get it within the given dimensions. The tread line is running on the 15-inch line and reaches 9 inches as requested.
It depends if they take the 12-inch line from the very outer edge of the stair or from the inside of the handrail. If it is from the handrail which makes more sense as a user is restricted between the handrails then we reached the 12-line request. Can you have a check if you can have this passed for approval? Otherwise, the only remaining solution is to remove the landing step and use the floor joist as the final step. This will give us a 9-inch tread-line on the 12-inch point from the outer edge of the steps.
The first option is aesthetically the best solution.
Regards
Michel
Hello Michel
Responding to the message I saw on email (although I do not see it here for some reason):
I really can’t add 5 inches there, the steps would protrude too far into a traffic area and also I can’t start the first step outside the opening because the ceiling is too low.
I notice there is a 6 inch projection from the top floor, is it possible to work with that? Or do it any other way?
looks great, okay I agree about the support, if anything seems shaky I can always add something under a stringer to the floor later.
My biggest concern is the part about no winder depth, at 12″ from the left, being more than 3/8 different depth from any other one. And the depth of each at least nine inches at that point.
August 7, 2014
Offline
Hi Daniel
if you fix the extended cutstring into the wall firmly there is no need to extend the right newel. I added support under the left cut string as there is the most pressure. Just extending the newel post would put pressure on the steps and not a sufficient support for the cut string.
I am confident the steps are to be approved. You can have it checked.
Here is version 6 with the 4″ gap between banisters
regards
Michel
Yes, excellent! But since the requirement is only a max. of 4″ spacing between the bannisters, I think we could put 2 per stair instead of 3.
Now the only remaining thing is making sure the winders comply (as close as possible, maybe does not have to be exact) with the requirements on that sheet. and, back to a previous question, don’t you think the stair needs some more support, like a newel post going to the floor on the left at the “turn” and on the right where the handrail bends??
1 Guest(s)
