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October 4, 2012
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Hi Jamie,
Thanks for this information.
Can you post a drawing of the stair well and walls?
Cheers,
Ness
i forgot to mention that my tread stock is 1/2″ wider than i need and will cut them down.
I intend to join the handrails and stringboards into the newals and then screw and plug from the opposite side.
The balusters are 1/2″ x 1/2″ metal post with a 1″ space in between and will be mortised into the handrails and stringers.
most of the joinery will be done with a router and template and some hand chiselling.
the stringers are 11 1/2″ x 1 5/8″ solid oak and the treads are 11 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ solid oak. The newals are 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″.
the hand rails are 1 5/8″thick and 3 1/2″ tall.
to mount the stringers under the floor joists, i will use an 10″ long bolt with lag threads on one end and machine threads on the other.
thanks for now ness
jamie
Hi ness, i just seen this message as i replied to michel,
i was wondering if you have google sketchup. The top of the stair is quite complicated and i have drawn that up there. If you wish to see it is fine although iam not expecting you to be able to draw that in stair designer. I will also send you a drawing of the stair well opening.
Hi michel,
wow, stair designer 7 is very different. I will explain the stairwell a little to help it all make sense. The side where there is a handrail, is up against a wall. I actually don’t even need a handrail there but didn’t know how to get it off. That is also the reason for the half newal post up against the wall (#3)
At the top of the stair, nothing really matters there because the stringers are mounted under the floor joists and then i will just run an offset handrail later. Its all very custom there. What i am looking for from you guys is the placement of the treads into the stringers and the placement of the joinery for the handrails and stringboards in the newal posts.
I intend to mortise and tennon the strings and handrails into the newals.
The mods you made to the start of the stair are good.
the end or top of the stair doesn’t matter
newals 1 2 and 4 should all touch the floor
thanks so much for your help and if you need anymore info please ask asap. I am hoping to begin machining tomorrow so if i could get some plans tomorrow would much appreciated.
thanks again
October 4, 2012
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Hello Jamie and Michel,
Sorry to reply so late Jamie, but as Stefan has said, we are both actually away visiting Radecal our CNC partners in the north of England so we don’t have a lot of time in the day.
I’m just profiting of a bit of time before going to bed to have a quick look at your stair.
Thanks to Michel for his great feed back that I would perfectly agree on.
But before giving more feed back on your stair, I would like some more information on your project.
Can you post:
– a drawing with dimensions of your stair well and if possible some photos
– a diagram of the stair at the arrival with information of the joist thickness and how it has to connect to the upper floor, if the handrails need to connect to balustrades, etc.
– a description of how you want to build the stair, ie: whether you want to cut with cnc or by hand, what tools you be using etc.
– a description of the stair with a list of the sections of the different parts, thickness of stingers, steps, posts, and other elements would be a great help
– a description of the joints you want to use, tenons, bolts etc. and why you want to use them.
Can you also specify the units that you are using.
And of course any other information pertaining to the stair and it’ environment that you have.
The more information we have the better our advice will be.
Thanks in advance,
Ness
August 7, 2014
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Hi Jamie
I made an example stair with stairdesigner 7. Have you downloaded this software already ? There you can have a look and let me know your findings
regards
Michel
August 7, 2014
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Hi Jamie,
I did a quick check on the drawing and some settings are off.
here a few remarks . Let me know your findings
* stringboards are penetrating the newels too much ; They intersect internaly . I usualy work with no penetration but flush against the newels
* start of the stair : stringboard needs to overpass the first step (20 mm) and the first newel post should be in line with it so that you have a straight start
* the end of the stair . Stringboard should overpass the las step. This is defining the landingstep on top . Usualy a good size is 70mm
* the newel post in the corner should go to the floor level to support the stair in case that the stair is not near a wall. I do not know the situation but the stair should be fixed at that point.
If you can show me the situation of where the stair will come I can advise you more.
Let me know if you like me to do the changes or if you do it and resend the corrected plan so I can check further
regards
Michel
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